Fish pie, bolognese or chicken leg? Those are the mains on the lunch menu. It doesn’t change for the early bird evening set menu. Not exactly mouth watering options.

The a la carte is so much more fun. Tip: treat yourself, go a la carte.

If you do, the duck breast and the roast cod dishes will not disappoint. Did I miss the memo about crispy chicken with fish becoming the new surf and turf? I’m a fan of both, so no complaints from me. The rhubarb dessert with soft meringues really is excellent.

When the yolk of the crispy hen’s egg starter had hard-boiled fringes, my frown could not be turned upside down.

The staff were excellent throughout (nailing a fouth star that the boring set menu and hard egg yolk had jeopardised).

FWIW – NM was bare wristed (but I wouldn’t put him past a watch-like gesture) – www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2013/0221/1224330312053.html

Brendan S.

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